NYC: The Rise of Mask Culture
“All Societies end up wearing masks” Jean Baudrillard, America, 1986
From the exuberant days of Studio 54 and the effortless street style associated with Hip-Hop in the 90’s, New York City has long been at the forefront of fashion and self-expression. So in today’s COVID-19 climate, it’s no surprise to see New Yorkers adapting quickly to the new government mask requirement.
We all, to a greater or lesser degree, have a need to express our individuality. Whether that’s through the books we read or the brands we wear. In these times of lockdown, the windows of expression are changing and people are having to adapt.
“What you wear is how you present yourself to the world, especially today, when human contacts are so quick. Fashion is instant language” Miuccia Prada
Capitalism has always been quick to turn a necessity into a commodity. Take sportswear for example; trainers were first designed around performance, yet today, unless you’re an athlete, the style and what the brand says about you is arguably more important.
”well I’m standing in front of a pet-shop so it’s no surprise that my mask has dogs on it.” (Photo above on the right).
As the BAMM Uncertainty project outlined, in times of darkness we become more ‘groupish’ and cling to brands and people we believe in. This coupled with the government requirement to wear masks in NYC has seen a flourish in mask culture. If people have fewer opportunities to go out they have fewer moments in the week to publicly express themselves. Even GQ has now published a facemask buying guide; a nod to the stylized facemasks going mainstream.
Over a matter of weeks single-use surgical masks have been replaced by more and more reusable consumer masks on the streets of New York, bringing with them a sense of permanence, perhaps Baudrillard was right and all societies do end up wearing masks.
Photography & words by Tom Ford